Maturing on wooden boards: tradition, expertise and character

08/18/2025 | News

Aging on wooden boards is an ancestral method that remains at the heart of the cheesemaking tradition, particularly in the Basque Country. This technique, still widely practiced, plays a vital role in the development of the flavor, texture, and rind of many cheeses.

WHAT IS AGING?

Aging is the maturation period of a cheese, during which it develops in aroma, texture, and appearance. This phase can last from a few days to several months, or even years. It takes place in cellars or curing rooms, under controlled temperature and humidity.

Cheeses aged on wooden boards develop richer rinds, more nuanced textures, and more complex flavors. This artisanal method often gives the product a strong identity, closely tied to its terroir.

AGING IN OUR AGOUR CHEESE DAIRIES

The Maison Agour Etxea offers aging periods ranging from four to eighteen months.

Out of ten cheeses sold, six have been aged for six months, while two have undergone a twelve-month maturation. The longest aging, lasting eighteen months, represents about five percent of sales.

Extending the aging period requires expanding the cellars to store a larger number of cheeses. The Hélette cheese dairy therefore has curing rooms capable of accommodating up to sixty-six thousand cheeses.

We also practice “custom aging,” with a rigorous selection of batches and rinds rubbed with Espelette pepper, particularly on small series of just a few tons.

During the aging phase, Ossau-Iraty PDO sheep’s cheeses are turned, dry-rubbed or washed with brine, and then brushed about every ten days to ensure their quality and unique character.

Since 2018, Agour has been aging a large part of its cheeses on raw spruce boards, a traditional know-how inspired by the affineurs of Comté and Beaufort. Wood has exceptional qualities for sheep’s cheese: it enhances the development of aromas, supports the aging flora, and naturally regulates humidity.

In the Basque Country, Agour is the only cheesemaker to have developed this method of aging on wooden boards.

WHY USE A WOODEN BOARD?

Boards, generally made of spruce, fir, or sometimes chestnut, are used as a support for aging, particularly for pressed cheeses or washed-rind cheeses.

Wood is a living material that offers several advantages, including humidity regulation. It absorbs excess moisture and releases it when needed, creating a stable environment around the cheese.

This material also promotes a natural exchange of microorganisms: the beneficial bacteria present in the wood interact with those of the cheese, contributing to the formation of the rind and the development of specific aromas. Finally, wood allows for good aeration; unlike plastic or metal, it supports the natural “breathing” of the cheese.

STRICT HYGIENE STANDARDS

Contrary to popular belief, using wood does not conflict with modern hygiene standards. The boards are regularly cleaned, scraped and treated according to a precise protocol to prevent the growth of unwanted microorganisms.

Aging cheese on wooden boards is much more than a technical choice; it is a traditional skill that respects life and enhances the cheese's natural qualities while ensuring food safety and flavour.